Jacqueline’s pistol-whipping break-in, along with everything else I wrote about yesterday, is upsetting our apple cart. Not to mention today’s A.M. Costa Rica article about how the I.R.S. is "helping" Costa Rica redefine it’s income tax laws. Because, you know, the U.S. is the expert when it comes to owning its citizens. Apparently, Costa Rica sees this as a good thing.
Back in the discussion of the surprise dollar devaluation against the colón, I totally skipped reporting on the inflation rate. El pais [pie-EESE, country] says it’s 10%. My pocketbook – and those of other expats – say it’s at least 20%. More like 25%. So the $3K/month we live on now will be $3,600 next year. We have yet to find a savings account offering 20%. It’s not just me whining. Pensionados living on fixed incomes as well as plenty of other expats are concerned by these facts.
We love Costa Rica, we love our life here, the quality of which is still better than in the U.S. To stay, we’ll justify almost anything. Money is not the biggest concern. We have to earn a living. If we can’t do it here or an opportunity drives us somewhere else, well, we’ll just have to deal with that. But earning a living is like the Cost of Doing Business factor. A fact of life, not an emotional breaking point.
The pistol-whipping break-in of a neighbor and friend is an emotional breaking point. Look at your kids and your old mom and your three goofy dogs and justify that.
I guess my Costa Rica pink cloud phase is over. This particular event has definitely turned our thinking upside-down, if only for the moment. So much so that Hal and I just tippy-toed around The Discussion. You know, the one about moving.
We HATE to see the violence take this turn. If we stay in this house, we need cameras, more plastic roofing material to block anyone seeing into our yard – which has the added benefit of looking Trailer Trashy enough so we don’t look really rich, and getting automatic combination locks installed on our doors. We can do all these things and not feel anymore fortress-y than we do now. Our house is VERY secure; J’s was not… I could have broken into J’s house.
But that’s not really the point. We don’t mind living in The Fortress. We just don’t want to have to defend it…
Our options are to 1) stay here; 2) move out of Escazú to a less-gringo rich area; 3) move to another country; 4) return to the states. Everything has a price. What are we willing to pay – in dollars, sanity, personal safety – in exchange for the best quality of life for our family?
Moving back to the states would make earning a living much easier, just logistics-wise, if nothing else. The U.S. is still familiar territory; until you’ve experienced culture shock, you won’t understand how deeply those ties bind and pull, especially when something scary happens in your foreign home. Still, we are not so naive as to believe if we moved from Costa Rica to Gainesville, we would not seriously doubt our sanity.
A new country is out for now. For starters, starting over would be hell. And expensive. The learning curve is tremendous. Even if English or Spanish were the native tongue, conquering a new land might be fun in a few years, but not yet. Besides: we aren’t done here.
Moving out of Escazú is a real possibility. I am definitely going to explore that. As long as my maid will come with me.
And Costa Rica, for all those negatives I mentioned, is still a magically beautiful place peopled by interesting, peaceful… people. I’ll bet actual money those robbers were not ticos. If we ran away, we’d be very, very sad.
Honestly, most of my disappointments are brought on by my First World expectations. There are still no mass shootings in malls, schools and churches here. Because SSRIs are not prescribed like candy. It’s a fact that the world is more dangerous everywhere. No IRS here. Yet. We don’t own property so tax hikes don’t affect us.
So… still here. Today. Not taking this lightly at all. Just working to avoid knee jerk reactions while evaluating options and the paying of prices. In the meantime, I’m installing cameras, changing locks. And expanding the Trailer Trash look into the back yard. I am from KY after all. This will make me feel right at home.
If you consider moving out of Escazu, you might want to check out Curridabat, on the east side of the city. It’s still in the thick of things, but it’s definitely an upper-class neighborhood. Upper-class tico. Might be a big safer. Of course, you could also try one of the gated communities, with guards…
My parents have a kind of electronic trip-wire across their driveway; if anybody pulls in, a little tone beeps in the house to let them know someone’s coming. My mom uses it so she can be prepared to open the door with a big plate full of mostaccioli for the sure-to-be-underfed visitor, but it’s security value is plain.
Cheap. Easy to hide. Put one wherever things shouldn’t be stirring after-hours.
Don’t move back to the States. It’s no fun here.
You’re walking down the same path we did. You’ll move out of Escazu (as we did) … but eventually, you’ll get tired of dealing with all the bullshit.
I like Curridibat, but it really isn’t too much safer than Escazu. You need to move out of San Jose, and even then your benefit will be marginal.
We chose Cartago– as it’s considered one of the safest cities in Costa Rica. But by international standards, San Jose is still considered a pueblo. And by comparison, Cartago is considered a pueblo by San Jose standards. Plus, it gets cold. And the infrastructure (like most of Costa Rica) sucks. You have the Terra Mall, but that’s a 20 minute trek down the highway. After awhile, you’ll tire of the “commute” to anything resembling civilization. And you’ll start to worry about your kids getting into an auto accident, because they want to go to movies and such, and going to the mall entails braving the pista… which is taking your life in your own hands.
By the way– I don’t know why you’re so hard on the U.S.? Our taxes are far from the highest:
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/36/Income_Taxes_By_Country.svg/800px-Income_Taxes_By_Country.svg.png
Well, speaking of Terramall, Tres Rios is another option. It’s a nice little town, but very close to San José (a straight shot on the highway, by car or bus), close to the mall, and with all the amenities of a small community. Since it’s more rural, it’s safer, and prices are lower.
Hi Erin – That is one of the towns we considered when we first were looking to be on this side of the valley… may look again. Moving is a big deal: there are five of us, we finally know our way around here… we just aren’t prepared to start a whole new learning curve!
Another area to check out is the Atenas and La Garita areas. There are nice homes, even Tennis clubs, good restaurants, and many young people for the boys to meet. Several of the countries best colleges are there. The International School of Business, The Central American School for Dentists, The School for Animal Husbandry, I see young but well educated kids around all the time. Crime is very low here.
Gated Communities are often targeted. Guards paid off, much theft comes from the contractors workers who are working during the days and have access to really check things out. Many places I have visited wave people right through no matter. Its better to take responsibility for your own place. The less access by any ticos the better. They view any American as rich no matter how you “junk” it up. Its just a fact. You are rich if you have a television, hot water, a car, dont fool yourself that Ticos arent at the root of the problem. Many of the ones that refuse to work the menial jobs look for easier options.
Ill bet in my little street there is only 1 out of every 10 houses that has a man working full time. Yet I cant find anyone who will cut my grass, trim trees etc. There is only one old man that is “designated” to do this type of menial work. Same with housekeepers. Two in the whole community will do this work. Everyone else living on a poverty income and on the front porch in enjoying the breeze every day. I resent it, I have to do most everything myself.
Now you…you have a strong husband and two teen boys to help you 😉 you are all set!
Some friends of mine and a lot of the people who have responded have said too many guards are in on the game. We prefer to take care of ourselves, if and when possible.
The lazy mentality is not just here and not limited to ticos…
Sara, I dont know if you have heard this and I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I know from good source (2 lifetime CR policemen) that all to often the robbers will return to the same house in a short period of time to steal the new electronics purchased to replace the stolen ones.
If you think about it, it doesnt happen to the Tico houses because in most cases there isnt the resources to run out and replace the computer, TV, Stereo etc. However it is well known that we like our “stuff” and wont be without it for very long. Please tell your friends to be more careful than ever in the upcoming months…or move if at all possible. I know that is extreme but crimes have worsened on the second and third trips back.
Tres Rios is a dump.
And the Ticos rob each other, too.
As for deterence– they’re too stupid to be deterred. When I lived in Moravia, I had a fenced front yard/drive way, and a steel block door. I had one of those cave-man sized dog bones in front of the door, a “Beware of Attack Dog!” sign above the door, and every light in the house one. While I was home.
They drilled the lock out of the front gate, did the same for the front door, kicked the door in, and tripped over the bone.
Face it: You’re living in a country where the crime level is equal to Compton and Watts.
No more tico bashing, Mr. Jones, and no more Costa Rica bashing. It’s one thing to comment on things you didn’t like while living here, but, jeez, give it a rest. You moved from here because you don’t like it here – fine. Your hostility is too much, like your agenda is to “get back” at Costa Rica because your life here was intolerable.
I am glad your life is better now that you are someplace else. I appreciate a differing point of view. But I don’t need this hostility. The world is hostile enough. Be nice or start your own blog at ihatecostarica.com.
Hi Cindy – my friend suspects this, they have two armed guards outside their house now and are moving. The house they are in would just require too much money to make it secure. Too bad, it’s a nice house…
Eh… You’re probably right.
I am bitter that the “We Love Costa Rica” web sites and blogs sold me a pipe dream, and I was dumb enough to buy it.
Caveat Emptor.
Dear Sara,
I wonder if you read the article this Tuesday (I think) in AM Costa rica. It says that Costa Rica does NOT have a Make My Day Law. It goes into detail about a poor man who was being robbed and shot someone…who later died of his injuries, and is being charged with murder. He was tracked down and arrested in the US after fleeing the murder charges.
All of you out there that own a gun and think that you will be able to protect your family and possesions, could be in danger yourselves. I was looking into buying a gun and never knew this, they dont tell you that you can buy a gun here but cant use it! Pkease be carefull. My thoughts and prayers go to your friends, how tramatic on top of this incident that they have to find a new place to live…. armed guards, I really feel for them. I have some extra rooms that are available if they need a place during the transition. I would be happy to help.
Hi Cindy – yes, I did read that article. I’m thinking there is more to it, but I don’t know for sure. And don’t really care… There was also the 70 year old U.S. citizen on the bus in Limón who strangled an armed robber. They thanked him. There have been several stories about delivery fellows shooting would be robbers, killing them, being handed back their guns. A business man in downtown San José who defended himself, was never charged (Hal reads La Nación.) We are comfortable with our choice. Thank you for the offer for my friend. They are good for now.
Hi. I am considering buying a nice little lot on the mountain at San Jose de la Montana. If I build there it would be a little place that I would be at periodically by myself, and other times with my 2 teenage boys. I wouldn’t be there full time.
I would like your opinions on the area, cautions, and thoughts on this scenario. Thanks all.
Hi SB, I love SJdlM – beautiful area. But it doesn’t matter where you are: if you are not going to be there full-time, you need someone to watch your place. If you leave it alone with no one watching it – and I mean full-time – you will be robbed blind. Stripped of everything down to the wiring. If I were to buy land and build, I would build a care-taker’s cottage, too, and have someone living there full-time. There are probably gringos you can get for the job. Or a tico… just need someone you can trust.
Do not take this lightly. When we first came here, we thought everyone was so paranoid. We found out we just weren’t paranoid enough. Sad – the worst part of living here! I wish it were different.
That said, if you have a care-taker, this would be a wonderful life!!! Pura vida!